top of page

Sculpting

The NSP medium is the clay I got in my kit. At first, it was hard to roll out which caused me to warm it up in the microwave. This softened the clay out which made it easier to work with. I used a rolling pin to roll this clay out due to it being a little bit stiffer. 

IMG_5705.JPG

The Monster clay was also an easy one to mould and to refine. This was the best one to flatten and roll out due to it being very soft. To refine this clay I used a loop tool and a stipple sponge to burnish.

The WED clay is the only water based clay on the tile. This was my least favourite as it was hard to work with. This was due to it drying up quickly and crumbling. However, to overcome this, water can be applied to stop it from drying out. This clay is better for walls and quick sculpts etc.

The Plasteline was my favourite clay to work with as it was easy to mould and refine. Furthermore, it was the easiest clay to roll out and flatten. I used a loop tool to refine and a stipple sponge to burnish over the top.

First of all, I rolled out my clay to the shape I wanted. I then went in with a large loop tool and refined the shape. When I was happy with the smoothness, I went in with my stipple sponge and burnished over the top to smooth any rough lines or edges. For each design, I sculpted the shape using an itty bitty tool. Then, I went in with my stipple sponge again and burnished over the top. When I was completely happy, I went in with my talc powder to highlight the texture.

Step 1 - Shape

Step 2 - Refine

Step 3 - Texture

Schick Vein Care. (no date) Hand veins treated. Available at: http://www.schickveincare.com/vein-treatment/hand-veins.html (Accessed: 1/03/19)  

Veins

I was extremely happy with how the veins turned out. I believe I blended and refined the sculpt well allowing it to look smooth. To create a refined look, I used a stipple sponge and burnished over the top of the veins. The clay was easy to work with and sculpt with the itty bitty tool. If I was to change something it would be the thickness of the veins, I would sculpt them thinner to allow them to look more realistic.

N.P. (2018) Old Wrinkled forehead. Available at: http://premiumtrade.info/house/old-wrinkled-forehead.html (Accessed: 1/03/19)

Wrinkles

First of all, I used a loop toop and stipple sponge to refine and burnish the clay. Once smooth, using 'the power of x' technique and my itty bitty tool, I started carving out my wrinkles. ‘The power of the x' technique is crossing over wrinkles so they look more organic. I believe my wrinkles look very realistic and the technique works. However, next time I do it, I will not press down as hard when creating the lines.

Scales

N.P (no date) Available at: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/fb/55/1d/fb551d60ad8e627ba177a24d68e5c3b7.jpg (Accessed: 1/03/19)

I wasn't impressed with how my scales turned out. This was because the clay was hard to work with and mould. Furthermore, I didn't like the reference picture I used as it didn't give me a close up of the scales. Next time I create these, I will use a different clay and a better reference picture with more detail.

Pores

Burgess, L. (2018) What are the best ways to get rid of large pores. Available at: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/320775.php (Accessed: 1/03/19)

​

I have learnt many terms from the lesson such as...

  • ‘Refine’ - to smooth something out.

  • 'Burnish' - to buff/brighten something.

I have also learnt how to create different textures with different tools. and techniques. The power of the X​ means to cross over lines allowing the wrinkles to look more organic. I believe my level of confidence was very low at the start of the session as I had never done sculpting before. However, after I did the first sculpt I became more confident moving onto the next ones. Out of the four, I was best at creating veins as they were easy to sculpt and looked realistic.

Laura explained how my veins looked very good and so did my wrinkles. However, for next time she told me when doing the scales, to try and keep the dots in the lines and to smooth the edges out more.

Therefore, next time I sculpt, I need to improve on my scales and make them look neater. I will do this by using a different clay as the WED clay dried up and crumbled. I also need to improve on refining my clay so that there are no speed bumps, but volcanoes.​

​​

I started off by refining the clay. I used a sharp end of one of my tools and faintly created little dots. I then went over with my stipple sponge and burnished over the top of the sculpt. This was one of the easier sculpts to do and I think it went well.

Reflection

IMG_6854.JPG
IMG_6855.JPG

You can create your own tools using various gauges of wire from the hardware store. You can create natural/organic  wrinkles using this technique.

You can also create your own loop tools using wire, then crimping it inside a metal handle. This allows the clay to pass through the loop instead of getting stuck in the tool. You can also get creative and create different shaped loop tools.

You can create your own sculpting tool handles using gauges of hollow metal tubing. Cut into 3 inch segments making it easier to sculpt and sand any sharp edges away.

"I like to create custom tools suited to the project. Using items available at hardware, music and hobby stores, it is easy to fabricate sculpting tools quickly and economically. You can easily hand-make tools for carving, raking, detailing, creating wrinkles and pores and doing other fine texture."

For finishing details and pore texture, you can use the end of a bobby pin, safety pin, hypodermic needle or small-gauge wire. These items are great for creating directional pore texture and organic looking surfaces.

Industry references on sculpting tools...

Make Up Artist. (Oct/Nov) Make Up Artist. Key Publishing Group, Issue 110, P 110,111.

Demonstration

​Dickey, L. (2019) Sculpting: Wounds/Grounding up. Available at: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/13ZRvtjsrrNCeAySkgCVaG_ACHSCIkyJoON02vGACAJ4/edit#slide=id.p (Accessed: 29/02/19)

My work

Step by step process of sculpting a wound...

No Step’ between the edge of the sculpt and the tile. Remember, volcanoes not speedbumps.

Screenshot 2019-03-07 at 16.25.07_edited

Step 1. I flattened and refined my clay ensuring it was ready for me to sculpt my wound.

Step 2. Using an itty bitty tool, and a reference picture, I sculpted my wound out.

Step 3. Once I was happy with my sculpt, I grabbed my stipple sponge and burnished the clay so that that were no rough lines.

Step 4. I then went on to create my flashing using a clay extruder.

Step 5. I placed my flashing around my wound, approximately 0.5cm - 1cm around the sculpt following and manipulate around the shape of the sculpt.

Step 6. I created my wall, again 0.5cm - 1cm away from the flashing, and blended the outside onto the tile ensuring no plaster could escape. 

Step 7. I applied vaseline on the inside of the clay, as mould release, where I will pour the plaster to ensure it doesn't stick to the mould.

Step 8. From a height, to avoid air bubbles, I poured my plaster in.

​

Reflection

I decided to use Plasterline to create my sculpt as out of the four clays, this was my favourite one. I acted on my reflection from last time and successfully refined my clay, allowing it to look like a volcano. I was extremely happy with how my sculpt turned out. I made sure to work from a reference picture to get it as realistic as possible. As well as that, I think my flashing went well as the clay extruder helped me create the perfect flashing. However, I struggled to create the wall and position it onto my tile. I used my loop tools to flatten the outside and inside of the wall, this was the most time consuming part as I had to make sure there were no holes for the plaster to leak out.

Smart target

To make my sculpts appear more professional, I aim to create two sculpts a week and practice the detail. This will help me become more confident in creating them and by the end of next year, it won't take me as long to create one. 

bottom of page